Solenoid Driver/Regulator Testing

Testing your Solenoid/Regulator board is almost as important as the repair job. The last thing I want is for you to unpack the board you sent me for repair and have it not work in your machine. I've developed a nice bench setup that allows me to test your solenoid/driver board completely. While machine testing is nice, be aware that most machines DO NOT test all 19 solenoid circuits, so a machine-tested board can not really be tested 100%. Mine are, and here'w why:

I apply the proper input voltage to the 5-Volt regulator, and subject it to a normal load. This load draws about 1 Ampere of current from the regulator circuit to assure it works under normal operating conditions.

I apply the proper input voltage to the high voltage regulator, and subject it to a normal load. This load draws just under 100 milliAmperes from the regulator circuit to assure it works under normal operating conditions.

To test the solenoid driver circuits, I have 18 simulated coil load circuits on my test setup. When I test each solenoid circuit, they're subjected to a load which will draw about a half an Ampere to make sure the driver transistors can handle the current. Q16 drives the flipper relay, so there is no simulate load for this driver circuit.

I use a switch box to select the inputs to the driver's decoder and with the switch box I can test ALL 19 circuits. Each simulated load has a lamp so I can be sure it's working properly. Q16 passes the test if the relay opens and closes.

I put a voltage and load on each of the two flipper relay contacts to assure they properly open and close when told to, by driving Q16. Hearing the relay open and close is one thing, but I want to make sure the contacts are working properly too.

I then measure each test point and assure it's reading as it should.

Power Supply Testing

Testing your game's rectifier board is almost as important as the repair job. The last thing I want is for you to unpack the board you sent me for repair and have it not work in your machine. I've developed a nice bench setup that allows me to properly test your rectifier board under game-like conditions to help detect any problems. While machine testing is nice, and for rectifier boards it's pretty much a complete test, I do not own enough machines to test each variety of power supply board. Also some repairs are done on the board only and I don't want to have to connect your board to a transformer in one of my machines. Instead, I do all power supply testing on my bench, like this:

First, if your board did not come with a transformer, I connect it to my test transformer. I have two on my bench, one for Bally AS-2518-18 and -49 rectifier boards, and another for AS-2518-54 boards.
Next, with no load connected to the outputs, I apply power and make sure nothing pops, cracks, sparks, or smokes. I also make sure all test points look "normal" for a board that is not under any load.

Finally, I apply a load to each of the 5 power circuits (high voltage, controlled lamp bus, GI bus, 5V regulator input, and solenoid bus) that will draw an amount of current that's typical of a working machine. I let it sit for a few minutes to make sure everybody's happy, then I measure the test points again. This time, since the board is under load, I expect to find readings that are closer to the board's specifications. If not, something is still wrong and I fix it.

Lamp Driver Testing

Testing your Lamp Driver board is almost as important as the repair job. The last thing I want is for you to unpack the board you sent me for repair and have it not work in your machine. I've developed a nice bench setup that allows me to test your lamp driver board completely. While machine testing is nice, be aware that most machines do not have 60 lamps, so while the lamp driver is driving 60 lamps, several circuits may not be connected to any lamp, So a machine-tested board can not really be tested 100%. Mine are, and here'w why:

First, I measure the +5VDC test point to be sure the board has the proper input voltage

Then, to test the lamp driver circuits, I have 60 simulated lamp load circuits on my test setup. When I test each lamp circuit, they're subjected to a proper load in order to draw an amount of current that would be typical for a lamp circuit. I then use an MPU board and run the lamp diagnostic test which will flash ALL lamps (60 on a -14 or -23 lamp driver, 12 on a -43 aux lamp driver, and 28 on a -52 aux lamp driver). I then look for lamps that are not flashing, or appear weak, and replace them.

I can also apply inputs using a switch box if I have to test individual circuits for whatever reason

6- and 7-Digit Display Testing

Testing your Display Driver is almost as important as the repair job. The last thing I want is for you to unpack the board you sent me for repair and have it not work in your machine. While machine testing is nice, I hate the thought of having to remove my machine's backglass every time I want to test a display. Plus, I don't own any 7-digit games (yet). What I've developed is nice bench setup that allows me to test both 6- and 7-digit displays properly, like this:

I connect your display to my test setup, which consists of a Bally MPU ROMed for Xenon, which allows me to test both 6- and 7-digit displays. I also apply the regulated high voltage needed by the display.

Then I measure the test points to be sure the board has the proper voltages

Finally, I run the display diagnostic test and allow it to run for several minutes. This test will cycle the display from 0 to 9, and will light up all 6 or 7 digits.

After some time, if all the digits appear normal, no strobing, missing segments, or missing digits, I consider the display tested, and repaired.

Created 4/21/07 - Last Modified 4/21/07 - Steve Kulpa Nolensville, TN
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